5 days & 4 visits

 I had originally started to write this post on Tuesday or Wednesday but didn't get as far as I had hoped.  So with a few changed words at the beginning here are some details of my last 5 days in Haydom.

My last five days in Haydom was a whirlwind full of adventure and new things. We did 3 village visits and presentations to 3 traditional dance groups, and visited a 2nd primary school where I addressed the entire student population of students and teachers. I got to try a variety of local food which were new to me and included Ugalu (a  local dish made of maze flour that looks like stiff mash potatos but is filling like bread but doesn't taste like either), Mud Fish, Impala meat, Monkey meat, roots and honey from trees.  I apologize to all the animal lovers and vegetarians - here vegetarian meals are not always an option and in the situation we were offered the two animal meat it would have been rude of me to have refused in this culture. Plus I was taught to always try something once and eating impala to me is like eating deer meat or moose meat back home in Newfoundland.  To answer those who are curious about the meat - monkey meat was quite yummy if I had to choose I prefered it over the impala.

This whirlwind started Friday with a visit to the Bantu village which was an hour and half drive away from town. By the time the dancers were ready for us and we were set up in the area they were going to perform it seemed the entire village had come out to see what was going on.  The presentation went well and the Chairperson of the village and the dancers were very supportive and receptive of what I had to say.

Saturday I would say is among the top memorable and amazing experiences of this adventure.  I meet James and Neema at the dining hall for where I am staying, with our other five companions very early in the morning.  You see this was the day I was going out to the Hadzabe and this is one of the local CTE (cultural tourism enterprises) that 4CCP has developed.  My five fellow companions are all medical students from New Zealand and Britain and we were all going to participate in various traditional activities for this group that are hunter gathers. The eight of us got to experience what a hunt is like and on this particular day it was a small velvet monkey that they caught.  The actual killing of the animal was not my favorite part but I understand the necessity for this group because what they capture they will use all of it for needs around the village but to see these men and young boys go through the process of tracking and hunting with only a bow and arrow was quite impressive.  They even told us the different kinds of animals they hunt and they said that an elephant is harder than a lion ( was not expecting that). After the hunt we were then given a tour of the traditional housing and watched the traditional dancers.  I then had to give my presentation to not only the dancers and the chairperson of the village but to also my five fellow companions.  That's not nerve racking at all!!!  But they were all very kind and supportive. We finished the day with being shown how to use a bow and arrow and we each got three shots.  My first shot did not go far, my second shot went past the target and the third one hit the tree directly beside the target.  I say a few more rounds of practice and I could give Katniss a run for her money (hey a girl can dream!).

The dancers were so gracious and appreciated my presentation that they provided some beautiful handmade beaded jewelry and they even gave the medical students and myself time to purchase some items before we left. I have been stating how cold it is here but in the bush areas where some of these villages are located have been extremely warm.  So warm that I got a slight sunburn from the day.  I guess it wouldn't be summer if I didn't get a sunburn and that is with me wearing sunscreen (but to be honest I could have missed the spot where I got burnt).

Link to one of the 4CCP staff's instagram account.  Links included photos of me presenting and shooting a bow and arrow:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BH7atztgV9l/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BH7aHpwA3Ln/

On our way back to the camp after the hunt:

Pure honey from the trees:

Meal of honey mixed with flour and water: 

The med students trying the local honey dish: 

Digging up roots: 

Roots filled with water: 

Target practice: 

Group shot: 

Dance they performed right before we left: 

Sunday was another visit to a village located along Lake Bassotu where the villagers fish, gather water and provide canoe tours. We were suppose to met the dancers at 10 am but by 12pm we were still waiting. James said that this is what African time feels like. We decided to head to the lake for the canoe tour that was arranged but they said it wouldn't be for long due to the Hippos that were present in the lake.  Interesting fact about hipps they can be aggressive and fast in the water and will ram canoes. However if they are charging you on land to get away form them you need to step up on to something.  The don't have the ability to move in a vertical manor.   Luckily we did not experience this and the canoe trip was very peaceful for me.  After the canoe trip we then went to a local place to eat (their local restaurants are nothing like ours back home.  We each had a piece of fish while we shared Ugalu.  By 2pm we were back at the field to meet the dancers.  Of course there was no shade and it felt like it was the hottest day of the week.  We go through it and this tribe was receptive but a little reserved in their interactions with us.  It was very apparent that they do not generally have visitors or interactions with outsiders but they gave me two gifts as thank yous. One is a bracelet and the other is one of their walking sticks that the men use in the traditional dance. They told me that if I was to wear the bracelet to the festival they would recognize me as a member of the tribe.

The view during the canoe trip:

Selfie in the canoe:

This use to be a football field before the rain season raised the water level in the lake (according to the tour guide in the canoe):

Monday was focusing on 4CCP's organization of the festival and what suggestions I could make for them.  It was a very productive day and was nice to walk around the grounds to discuss the festival.  I am sad that I will not be in Tanzania this September to see the festival.  Festivals like any large event benefit when there is a flexibility to how things are done.  Sometimes our best laid out plans seem great on paper but sometimes they don't work out during the festival and the staff have to be flexible to see it as it occurs and be willing to adapt.  I will be available to 4CCP staff as the festival approaches for any support they may need or want ( of course through correspondence).

Tuesday was the visit to the 2nd primary school where 414 students (the entire school population) sang the school song and the national anthem, then performed a dance and a special song for us. I was told afterwards that they found out about my visit on Monday afternoon and within less than 24 hours they had prepared and learned a new dance and the song to go with it and a second song.  It was apparent that they had worked hard and to only have less than 24 hours they did a great job.  During my little address to the student population I told them that if they keep working hard and supporting each other they will do really well at the cultural festival.

If there are no photos with a certain part of the blog it means that I took video instead of photos and I'm still trying to figure that part out. Will post as soon as I can.

Next posts...... last few days in Tanzania, creatures of Africa, foodporn and whatever else I think of.....Stay tuned.....

Thursday Hiking and Datoga

Thursday July 14 didn't start off as a great day but it ended as one.  My day started of with me fighting with the shower to get some sort of warm water but could only get extremely cold which resulted in a very short shower (I will figure out this damn shower before I go back to Arusha!) and a very small breakfast.  Seriously, for a church guesthouse why do they only serve bananas, bread and tea/coffee for breakfast.  Where are the eggs?  There are roosters and chickens here, anyway I will make the best I can do with what I have.

But after a not so great start it got better and better.  It started with a hike up a small mountain that took 45 minutes to an hour to hike up and the view form up top was amazing!!! Windy but amazing!!
It was a great way to start the day.

View before:

View from top:

What goes up must come down:

After the hike and morning tea we headed out to the Datoga village to meet the traditional dancers. They were very welcoming and thankful for the input that James and myself provided them.  The training session went a bit slower than the Iraqw only because it had to be translated twice.  I said it in english, Neema my translator doesn't speak the vernacular language of the Datoga so she translated it to Swahili and then a member of the dance troop translated to their language. If anyone had any questions or feedback (which there were lots from this group, which was very helpful) then it was translated back through those channels.  Some of the dancers spoke swahili but not all did.  

Photos: Women are wearing traditional skin outfits while a few of the men are wearing the traditional red shukra (plaid fabric looks like blankets). 

the group during our training session:

Photos taken by 4CCP of me during the session (proof that I am working...): 

After the training session, we were invited to tour an actual Datoga home.  We were greeted by the dancers outside the home and were welcomed by the owners of the home.  They even invited us back another day to drink the local beer when it is ready.  The entire experience was welcoming and wonderful. The Datoga people are truly a welcoming and very kind group of people.  

We then proceed to the Ednagew (the w is silent) Secondary School where 11 teachers, one cook and one principal educate 409 students.  After finding out on Wednesday that not all children go to school I was worried that this school would have a very small class but alas after seeing this school and the students my perception changed.  The students in this school are all from the Datoga and Iraqw villages and the class ranges from standard one up to standard seven. They also have a pre-primary level class.  This is the school that won the best school prize at last year's 4 Corners Cultural Festival. They prepared a dance and a song for us and it was a delight to watch them dance and sing.  I was invited to say a few words to the students so I just told them thank you for having me at their school, that I enjoyed their performances, and it was evident that they had worked very hard.  

I tried posting the videos of these two performances but there seem to be an issue getting it to load.  Since today is Monday and I am a bit behind my posts (still have to post about Friday, Saturday and Sunday, the food and Safari) I will try the videos later.   

Oh and a side note....some spelling in Swahili is very similar to the english spelling just add or subtract a few letters.  For example I have seen Datooga spelt with two o's and with one o.   The town I am currently in can be spelt Haydom, Hydom and according to google maps Hiydom.  That's not confusing at all!

Another note- yes, I did figure out the shower and was able to have a warm shower.  

Stay tuned for more posts........  

Visit to Iraqw village

 

Today I visited one of the Iraqw villages with 4 staff members of 4CCP.  Nelson, James, Neema (who is my translator), and the driver (who's name I am forgetting).  It was a short drive to the village where I got to see twenty traditional dancers perform.  After the performance we all went into the classroom where I provided some advice on what changes to make (that fit within their culture) to make the performance even better.  At first I was very nervous and worried that I didn't prepare enough.  But based on my conversations with James yesterday and after the class today he said what I prepared was perfect.  He only wanted me to go over the basics of stage performance with these performers and to not give them too much information or they would forget it.

Before I provided any advice I thanked them for having me and for performing for us.  I applauded their performance and said that my suggestions would make the presentation all that much better. The advice I provide was centered around uniformity. Uniformity in their costumes, the positions of their hands, when they move and when they finish.   Neema translated to Iraqw for me and according to her and James that the group of 30 received my information well and all agreed.

It's a bit unsettling to be in a room full of people where everyone is talking and you have no idea what they are saying.  Neema was great in providing translation for me and also translating my information to the dancers in a way that was welcomed by the group. It's all in how you delivery the information. For the mistakes that I made today I will do better tomorrow.

There were lots of photos and a video taken of my class by one of the 4CCP staff.  They are going to share with me the video and photos.  I may share the video, it just depends on how bad it is.  lol

After we finished the class, they took me to a local Iraqw blacksmith who made a bracelet that I purchased for 10,000 tzs (which is equal to $6.00 Cdn). It was really interesting to watch him use traditional tools to make this metal bracelet.   He put the bracelet on me and tightened it in a way that made it secure. It was so secure I couldn't get it off.  In fact when we got back to where I am staying James and the staff driver came to my rescue to help get the bracelet off.  I love the bracelet but I prefer to have the option to wear it when I want to and not all the time.

There were lots of children gathering as we watched him create this beautiful bracelet and they were very intrigued by the idea of taking a selfie and I think me. One was like a little shadow holding on to me.

Funny moment that happened - when I was handing him the money to pay for my bracelet, one of the small children came up to me and held out their hand to receive the money.  Both the blacksmith and myself laughed.  See you don't need to speak the same language to enjoy something funny.

Here are a few photos from the day that I took:

Me all ready for the day and yes it was cold this morning:

The Iraqw traditional dancers:  

The Blacksmith heating up the metal:

Selfie with some of the children:

Cleaning/ shining the metal: 

Bending it into shape: 

Chisling the decorative pattern into the bangle (you can't tell from this photo but he is holding the 

bracelet in place with his toes): 

The finished product (after we got it off):

Tomorrow I am suppose to go on a morning hike with James and Neema and then go to. Datooga village however 4CCP staff have found out that there will be a funeral in Datooga village tomorrow and not sure how that will affect our visit. 

Part of this experience is to be flexible so we will see what happens. 

Next post.... Traveling to Haydom and my accommodations. Hopefully there will be a separate post about the Datooga visit. Stay tuned.......

4CCP and the work they are doing here

I know many people are interested in hearing about the Safaris and my travel to Haydom but I wanted to focus this post on the important work that the 4CCP (Four Corners Cultural Programme) is doing in Haydom and the work I will be doing with them. 

History states that the region of Haydom is the melting pot of culture because this is where the four main African language groups from four different corners of the continent converged and settled.  These language groups are Bantu, Khoisan, Nilo-Saharan and Afro-Asiatic.  In Tanzania alone there are over 120 tribes, each with their tribal language which is separate form Swahili.  Having the four language groups in one location makes Haydom and Tanzania unique and rich in culture. 

For my work, 4CCP wants me to focus on four tribes in the area, the Iraqw, Datooga, Bantu and Hdzabe.  For those that are wondering the famous Maasai tribe of Tanzania have the same language as the Datooga which is  part of the Nilo-Saharan language family.  

After arriving on Monday, I went to the Four Corners Cultural Center where I received a tour of the grounds which included the pavilion where the performances for the cultural festival takes place, the Museum that has tools and small items used by each group and the authentic houses from each tribe.  I also watched a few videos (about 4 or 5 hours worth) that focused on the history and culture of the four different groups and also about the festival.  

Interesting facts that I have learned over the past two days (and some from the entire trip):

- Apparently Cows when given a name will learn and know their own name.  When the first wife (the other wives can do it but only with permission) in a Datooga family goes out to milk the cows, she calls them by name and they only come when they hear their name called.  Even more amazing, calves know their mother's name and when her name is called the calf will come out of their area (kept separate from their mother cows) and join her.  

- Chickens know where they live and the way home.  In most villages in Arusha and Haydom if a family owns chickens they train the new chickens to know their home for about a week and then once the chicken know it's home they are free to roam around the village and at night they make their way home.  I was also told that if a rooster loses his way all he has to do is follow the chickens home. Talk about free range!

- majority of children in remote villages (like the ones I am visiting this week) do not attend school unless their parents want them to.  

-there is a high percentage of people in the villages that are not able to read or write.  I saw this first hand today during our visit to Iraqw village where 4 out of 20 people were the only ones able to sign their own name.  The alternative option instead of a signature here is to use a fingerprint. 

- Iraqw people believe it is better to miss farming than to miss dancing.  Even with the early start their day their dancing can go til 3am.  

- Datooga custom states that a married woman is not allowed to have sex outside the house even if she is traveling with her husband she is only permitted to have sex with her husband in the house. Also wedding ceremonies are two day affairs that only the women attend and their burial ritual is to put the person in a sitting position and build a tomb like enclosure.  

- The Hdzabe people are a matriarchal society where the women own everything while the men only own their hunting tools. The men hunt for food while the women gather fruit.  They collect enough food for the day only if they have too much they will invite neighbouring Hdzabe to the meal. They believe that because they were successful today with hunting and gathering food, they will be successful tomorrow.  They do not have a set time to eat, they eat when the food has been found. 

- Both the Bantu and Datooga are polygamist societies.  In order to have multiple wives the man must prove that he can provided for all needs for all wives and children. 

- The employment rate in Tanzania has risen from 20% to 40% over the past 7 months due to the new president's plan to get the population to work.  His slogan 'Hapa Kazi tu' means everyone must work hard. 

The 4CCP's mandate is to preserve the culture of the people in the area, the showcase the uniqueness of the Haydom area and the number of different tribes that cohabitate in this area.  They also want to cultivate a culture for development and social welfare for all.  The Cultural festival in September is one way for the 4CCP to showcase the area and these groups.  They hope to grown in a manner where everyone from Tanzania will come to the festival but that international travellers will also start to travel to Tanzania to see this festival. 

Next few posts.......visits to Iraqw, Datooga, Bantu and Hdzabe villages, 

Ifulong Village cultural tour

On Monday TTB organized a Village Cultural tour for me and Katherine.  Katherine is a Canadian student who is a volunteer intern with TTB for the next three months training Cultural Enterprises staff  and owners how to use social media to promote their product/tours.  The Ifulong cultural experience comprises of two villages, Njoro and Poli, which are located along the slopes of Mount Meru.  There are two hills Shimbumbu Hill and Rumale Hill that give you great views of Mount Meru and Arusha. This a new Cultural tour that started about a month ago and Maturo wanted our input on the tour.

As I am writing this I realized I took over 140 pictures from this day.  Correction there are over 140 photos on my phone.  The guides that we had were great in taking our phones ad getting pictures of us in the various settings. I promise not to post all of the photos.

from left to right: our  main tour guide (who's name escapes me), Katherine and Eugen:

Wow that's a big tree:

I have to say that this was a long and exhausting day. I started the day with a meeting at 8 am then left TTB office in Arusha before 9 since the guide for the tour was there to pick up  Eugen (from TTB), Katherine and I. We arrived at the main office for the Njoro village around 10 ish and we started our hike.  Yes, this was a hiking day in all forms. This village has two levels, the level at the bottom of the mountain and the upper level in the hills.  Even though there is 2000 people living in this village, it didn't feel cramped or small, it actually felt peaceful, spacious and vast.

As we hiked on small dirt paths through trees our guide told us about the different types of trees that were native (indigenous) and which trees were exotic.  He continued to explain that the village was originally a settlement for Germany and the exotic trees were brought over by the Germans. We came across a stream that flowed from a near by river.  Traditionally boundary lines between villages are set by river locations.  When you cross a bridge you are now in the next village.  (Cool!!).  Along our hike we came across so many streams, creeks, and rivers.  These villages are full of lush green landscape because of the water resources they have.

First stream:

Some of the original buildings from the original German Settlement are still in use like the church and school.  Apparently in when building settlements, German architects always had the church beside the school and are apparently the first buildings to go up.  The things you learn!!!

The Church and School:

Teacher's building (old and new):

As we walked and talked with our tour guide I didn't realized we had climb so high on the hill.  Well when you go up you have to go down.  This is when the tour took us to the first of two waterfalls.  For those that are afraid of heights I honestly don't know how you would fair. Don't get me wrong, for me the hike down was well worth the stunning visual of the waterfall but others may not think so.  During our walking through the village heading to the waterfall we have three locals from the village join us and it was a good thing they did. They helped guide me and Katherine down the step climb to the waterfall. From what I can tell two of our three new friends are fellow tour guides while the third one was maybe a guide in training or just there to help along.

The climb down:

The climb back up at the bottom of the path:

Halfway up- looking behind me at three of the guides:

Looking ahead of me:

The reason for this steep path:

With our three guides:

With TTB staff member Eugen:

After the waterfall we then were taken to the area where they do the Banana tree planning lesson that was fascinating and they even let us take turns shoveling dirt. They explained the process from digging the hole (60x60 m), to cutting the baby tree from it's mother, to adding the cow manure, then sticking in the tree and covering it with the dirt.

New Banana Tree:

We then headed into the village towards the central spot of the village. Here there is an old brick building that use to be used by the Germans as a courthouse but the local village does not use it.  Their tradition is to use trees.  There are three large trees that if you have an issue or something you want to discuss you are to sit under the appropriate tree.  One tree is for political issues, the second on one is family or town ( I can't remember) and the third is for all other issues.

on the way ( it's so pretty):

Village houses:

The village center and the three trees: 

Remember this field!

The village children were so cute!!!

The village hospital recieving supplies:

Then we had an amazing traditional meal that was made by local women from the village.  The idea of soup with meat and banana was a new one for me as well as the stew like dish that had potato, beef and bananas.  I was surprised that the bananas were not sweet, it actually shocked me a bit.  The bananas they use here for cooking are not sweet but the smaller ones that they peel and eat are sweet. The food was amazing. I know I keep saying that but it was.  The avocados are soft and have this great texture to them and the rice is yummy too.

Lunch is served!  the two small brown bowls in the front are traditional bowls they use to use before utensils were introduced.

My plate:

Avocado juice!  So yummy and apparently good for energy.

After lunch they showed us how to make traditional coffee and actually made some for Katherine to try. She said it was the best coffee she had ever tasted.  

As we were leaving the house and heading to our next destination on the tour we walked past the field where the three trees were.  Well instead of children playing like earlier it was occupied by cows and goats.  I thought this was quite interesting and a bit funny.  I guess cows and goats should get to enjoy the field too.  

We hiked a bit more and were taken to our second waterfall where the swimming hole is.  The climb down to this one was a lot more stepper than the last one and the path is new.  In time it should become an easier path to navigate. I was too afraid to stop and take my phone out to take pictures of the climb.  

The second waterfall:

They finished the day off with a stop at the local pub to try some Banana drink.  It has 10% alcohol, and tastes like a cross between a cider and a beer.  I'm not a big fan of beer but this drink I was fine have a few drinks. It is hard to describe.  It's not sweet, doesn't have a banana flavor that we were expecting and it's smooth like a cider but still has that hoppy feel of a beer. 

We trekked back to the car and arrived back at the office after 6 pm. We were all tired but it was that great tired from spending the full day outside in the fresh air.  When I got back at 7 to our hotel all I wanted to do was have a shower and sleep however the other volunteers had arranged to go out to dinner and were waiting for a cab to go. They waited for me to changed and we went to a local place called Nick's pub for BBQ chicken, chips and wine.  The food again was yummy and filling.  

The link to Ifulong's facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/IfulongCTE/

Next post......the rest of my week and possible a safari or two.......stay tuned!